Believe it or not, “revisiting” our recent trip is hard work! Those who know me well know I’m always on a trek for knowledge. I want to know things, I love to research and learn (always have), and I have to piece together things until they make sense. That trek is actually what prompted my efforts to ‘unpack’ Grandma’s journal in the first place. I wanted to know WHY a young, single, Quaker maiden would board a train in Kansas and head West. The answer? Well, it was to visit friends and family who had migrated from the Quaker settlement around Northbranch and Burr Oak Kansas to other areas in Idaho, Oregon, and California. It all made sense once I realized she was going to visit loved ones. And, by the way…this is a photo of her little journal. It’s thin, and the size of a checkbook. Her writing is in pencil, throughout, and her penmanship is indicative of the time period, but easy to read. Grandma and I corresponded over the years, since we almost always lived a distance from her. Her penmanship warms my heart.
As I learned about the Woodland/Kamiah area of Idaho where Grandma spent several months, I had to know more. So, I called strangers (like the pastor of the Woodland Friends Church) then emailed the person he suggested (Jerry Johnson) who is a local historian. Again, the more I learned, the more I wanted to know. I fell in love with the area, and had to see it for myself. And, OMGoodness, I’m so glad I did.
Rather than introduce you to more sights and adventures, I’m going to stop and reflect today in Part Five. I am sure it’s no surprise I journaled during our trip. Right? (It’s in my genes!) Here are some random snippets from my journal.
August 20, 2024 – We’re heading west…embarking on an adventure similar to one taken by my paternal grandma 111 years ago. We will see some of the same mountain ranges, cross the same rivers, travel under the same stars, moon, and sun. Our mode of transportation is much different and our route a little varied. Grandma rode the rails. We’re going on highways in a pickup. The telling of Grandma’s story – that small segment of her life – was quite an experience. An honor, really. Can’t wait to ‘relive’ some of it a century later. As Jim and I go, accompanied by our faithful pup Shotgun, random pondering will be recorded for future generations.
Mankato KS – No depot – Elevation 1,837′ – rolling grassland, nearly dry creek beds meander through pastures. Croplands blanket the horizon, too. Cattle graze in the pastures. a 360-degree view is breathtaking in what is often called ‘flyover country.’ As we approach Atwood, we notice a rise in elevation. Jim’s truck has the option of showing the elevation on the dashboard, which is awesome on such a trip as this. The natural landscape is changing. Dry. Sandy. Yucca plants. Still a 360-degree view – you’d think the world is flat. It’s not! I promise!
Today, I’m thankful for a different view of this flyover state. We are on state highways rather than the Interstate. We hurry too much in this life, taking the fastest route from Point A to Point B. Sometimes it’s just good to relax and follow where the road leads; to enjoy the less-hurried route.
In McDonald, Kansas (I didn’t know such a place existed) there is a sign saying the town was established in 1888. Did Grandma see that sign from the window of her train car? I don’t know, but the little town was here.
August 21, 2024 – After a quick overnight stay with my niece and family in Severance Colorado, we head north on Highway 287. Elevation 5,971′. Rocky outcroppings surround us. Layer after layer of blues and greens. Sun and shadows. We see antelope near Laramie. Hmmmm? Antelope. Grandma never once mentions antelope in her journal. Did she not see any? I find that hard to believe, as they’re often seen in the Colorado landscape.
Gone are the peaceful backroads…we join the hustle and bustle on I-80 across South Wyoming. So many trucks. So much traffic.
I often wonder why Grandma didn’t ever use expletives. Oh, I don’t mean ‘naughty’ expletives. She wouldn’t. I mean descriptive adjectives. How could a flatlander from Kansas travel across Colorado and Wyoming and NOT – not even once – say “WOW!” or “Gorgeous!” or “Beautiful!”? How can she see such beautiful landscapes and not acknowledge them? I do not know!
August 22, 2024 – From the upstairs window of our cozy barn apartment (Kaysville UT, a suburb of Salt Lake City), I see leaves touched by a mix of sunshine and shadows, dancing slowly in the morning breeze. It’s almost like waking up in a tree house. Shiplap walls and crude cedar trim welcome us to relax and rest in this place; to enjoy a break from the traffic. We’ll stay here two nights.
Just outside, Latte and Mocha – the goats who live here – approach the fence begging us to come a little closer. They bleat, gently, but we only smile and say “hi!” What else is one to do with a couple of goats on the other side of a fence? They actually live beneath us. The ‘barn’ is situation at the back of the hosts’ property, which slopes down rapidly. Their shelter is behind and below ours. The goats don’t mind their steep and rugged terrain. Sure-footed, they scamper around hoping we’ll soon discover the animal crackers provided inside. Our hosts welcome guests to feed their friends. No wonder The Coffee Goats (as they’re called) look at us with such expectation.
Today, we drove to Bear Lake. Such a lovely day-trip. We also drove to Montpelier to see the last bank known to be robbed by Butch Cassidy. I’d been to Bear Lake with my parents and brother decades earlier, but wanted Jim to see it. The trip up Logan Canyon was unbelievably gorgeous. Of course, I had to take pictures but there were too many ‘Kodak moments’ to be captured. If I asked Jim to stop each time I saw something worthy of photography, we’d never get ANYWHERE! I did resort to some “on the move” pictures.
Bear Lake is perhaps the most beautiful lake I’ve ever seen. Read that again…THE MOST BEAUTIFUL lake I’ve ever seen. I was more impressed by it as an adult than I was as a child (and I remember being impressed then). The beauty of this entire trip is tucked away in my memory; forever stored with at least a gazillion untaken pics.
Okay! Stop! Let me give you perspective via a little side note…many of you don’t know this but early this year I experienced extreme dizziness, eye fatigue, and almost constant eye pain which led to an appointment with an ophthalmologist (and friend). She gave me some disturbing news. I was scared I might lose my sight. Seriously! It was sobering to consider how blindness would impact my life. I’ve had appointments, procedures, and treatment since then. I’m “okay” – basically – but I don’t take my eyesight for granted, and will continue to be closely monitored. That may have been an added incentive to travel NOW. We don’t know what tomorrow holds. I’m forever thankful the images from our trip – even the ones I didn’t capture – are solidly locked in my brain. Soooo very thankful. But, back to my journaled notes!
Friday, August 23, 2024 – Did you know the Great Salt Lake is the largest inland body of salt water in the Western Hemisphere? It ranges in surface area from 2,400 square miles (in 1873) to 950 square miles (in 1963). It’s made up of marshes, beaches, mudflats, and islands. The median water level is 15′ with the maximum at about 35′ deep. And, did you know there is an island – Antelope Island – situated in the middle of the GSL? I didn’t. The dust was terrible both at Antelope Island and across SE Idaho toward Boise today. We made it to Nampa, found our B&B, and got settled in time to see a gorgeous sunset, then grabbed a late bite to eat. I am exhausted and filthy from the blowing dust at every stop. My hair couldn’t be more tangled even though I attempted to pull it back today. And, we have one equally exhausted pup. Shotgun is DONE! Goodnight all!
Saturday, August 24, 2024 – This morning, we had a delicious meal at the Sunrise Cafe in Nampa – a little strip-mall cafe that was a great place to eat. Yum. We explored Lake Lowell, Caldwell, and Greenleaf. Did you know when the Big Reservoir (as it was called in Grandma’s day) was – when completed – the largest off-stream reservoir on Earth? I didn’t. Again, I learned something today. The lake is filled with water from the Boise River which comes forty miles through what’s called the New York Canal. It was quite a big deal. According to a brochure about its early days: “People are coming from afar off purposely to see the big reservoir when it is at its fullest. It will show what a great, good work the government has done for its people.” No wonder the locals were eager to have a picnic at this new place. Grandma was seeing a piece of history, recently completed. Farmers in the area were no doubt celebrating the promise of water for their irrigation needs. Across Idaho, we have noticed how much irrigation plays a role in the state’s agriculture. I didn’t expect that. I didn’t realize Idaho was so dry. Back home, we’re having triple-digit heat. Not here in Idaho. Yet they irrigate constantly. Cattle even graze on pastureland that is being irrigated. Interesting. One more night at this loft apartment, and we’ll head North.
Okay…enough of my journal of the trip. I know some of it was a flashback to earlier days, so let’s move on. Sunday the 25th was the day we drove to Indian Valley and enjoyed the Ratcliff Reunion. That night we settled in just outside of Kamiah. Ours for the week was an upstairs loft apartment over a shop in the backyard of a lovely couple. We had everything we needed, and it was a great place to walk with Shotgun. One evening, I saw a wild turkey in the fenced-in backyard of a neighbor. When I walked back, that silly turkey was on their patio tap-tap-tapping on the door. Unbelievable (and no phone to snap a picture)!
We saw wildlife on our trip – besides our neighborhood turkey! The most unusual thing we saw was a badger, slowly waddling across an Interstate highway. Yes, that’s the truth. Thankfully that wasn’t in a congested area or it would have been flatter and closer to the ground than it was. We also saw the normal wildlife…antelope, deer, sheep, goats, cattle, longhorns, bison, horses, an elk and a bear. Those last two – elk and bear – were road kill. Massive road kill. I would have hated to have been the vehicle involved in either of those.
I kept saying to Jim, all the way, “Just one elk. Just one bear. That’s all I ask for!” To which he said “I’ll take you to the zoo!” Funny guy. Then, later, when we were about 30 miles from home, he said “I should have turned back there.” I asked “Why?” “So you could see your elk!” (There’s a property near here where an elk is kept in captivity, in a nice little shed and corral. I don’t know the back story, but it’s just there. Jim thought maybe by seeing THAT elk, I’d have my wishes fulfilled – to see an elk on this trip. Well, no!)
When we were between Kamiah and Missoula heading home, there is a section of the highway without ANY services (bathrooms, fuel, food – nothing) for 84 miles from Lowell to Missoula. Of course, there are similar places across much of Montana and Wyoming. But, Highway 12 from Kamiah to Missoula is absolutely stunning. One of the most enjoyable scenic drives of our trip. (Note: This was NOT part of Grandma’s trip in 1913. She left Kamiah headed for Oregon and California. We left Kamiah headed home.)
At one point on that road, the elevation was 4,527′ and a sign showed curves ahead said “Next 99 miles!” They were right!
At Lochsa Lodge there was a little campground with a small restaurant, gift store, and general store. One of the guys who worked there was filling out an Idaho Fish & Game report as I stood at the counter. I glanced down to see the date, and next to “Species?” was the word “Bear”. Someone had evidently spotted a bear that day. I wish I had.
Lochsa Lodge was just a tiny community in the middle of nowhere. We saw a doe and twin fawns there, but no bear. What a great place to be, but it takes effort to get there. My hubby’s comment as we got back on the road was this: “You have to really WANT to go to Missoula.” Yes, that’s very true. BUT, it’s a trek I’d do again for the beautiful scenery. I’ll share pictures later. Stay tuned. The elevation went up steadily – or so it seemed – from there to Lola Trail Crossing. There were lots of diseased and downed trees in certain areas. I wonder why. Thick lush forests are beautiful. Diseased and fire-ravaged trees are not. Such a travesty, but I guess it’s all part of the eco-system. Right?
This has been somewhat of a rambling post, but full of so much I wanted to share. In Part Six I’ll get back on track and share about our stay in Kamiah. We arrived on Sunday the 25th of August and left on Tuesday the 3rd of September. THIS AREA of Idaho – Kamiah, Woodland, Pardee – is where Grandma spent three months with her aunt, uncle, and cousins in 1913. It’s the area I most wanted to explore, and I was not disappointed. Not at all.
And, so that you won’t suffer from photo withdrawal, I’ll share a few random pictures with you today…see you soon for Part Six!
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